Posted by admin on June 16th, 2010
hi everyone, I want to know how different the clutch feels in a RWD vs a FWD car, I have been driving a jetta 5 speed for some time and im looking into buying the 6 speed corvette c5, however people tell me that the clutch is a hydraulic clutch and a bit different, can someone describe this to me please?
its not the drivetrain that dictates how the clutch feels, its the car itself, different car’s clutches feel different from other cars regardless of drive train.
"most" higher performance cars have clutches that are hard to press. and gear boxes that take more effort to shift.
just simply test drive the corvette, if you don’t like it don’t buy it.
Posted by admin on June 16th, 2010
It also grinds alittle when when shifting gears. But the main problem is when I go to shift and the clutch is already depressed. I can’t shift when it is depressed. I have to reach down and pull it up. Is the clutch gone or hopefully something little that can be fixed?
Is it a hydraulic clutch check the fluid in it’s mastercylinder it will look like the brake mastercylinder and will be right next to it it also takes the same fluid.
Posted by admin on June 16th, 2010
I’ve recently been having a problem with my car that has progressively been getting worse. My clutch works fine when pulling out, no slipping, from what I can tell. But when I try to accelerate, pushing the accelerator to or almost to the floor, the RPM’s rise but the car goes nowhere, almost like spinning in place, it takes about 2 or 3 seconds for it to catch and start accelerating. The car also seems to have lost some power.
My first question would be… my car has 110,000 miles on it… is that a lot miles for a clutch?
And secondly, how much does a typical clutch replacement cost on a front wheel drive car?
yup i think its the clutch all right…haha
could of been it got damage mayb the way
your driving or who is driving
Posted by admin on June 16th, 2010
I’ll buy the Haynes, or similar type repair manual. Just wondering if any special tools are needed, also any tips or info on the "how to" would be appreciated–I’ll be doing it for a friend that can’t afford to have a shop do it–Thanks
If you have never replaced a clutch,I would never try it without someone there with expert experience.You will in the end, pay a tow truck and a shop the extra cost to reassemble your car.
A back yard man can do the job,Yes.
With the knowledge.
Don’t forget to machine shop the flywheel and replace the rear main oil seal.
Posted by admin on June 15th, 2010
I need to replace the clutch in my 97 vw cabriolet. Two shops quote me approx. $1,200 for the parts + labor. I’m floored. Is this reasonable? I thought clutch replacement was, like, in the $400-500 range?
You want a good comparison? Go to the dealership and ask them for a quote. That will either make you sit down or blow you out of your socks. It is generally the highest.
It is their car, their mechanics are most familiar with it and get the quote in writing. And you can study it. Cost of parts, cost of labor. And this is the minimum. Who knows what other things they may find wrong. So specify the clutch is all you want done. If they see other obvious stuff, let you know but not now.
This is quite a job. The motor, for all intense purposes is completely removed…which means removing exhaust and drive axles and coolant lines and electrical and the "thingamabob from the whatchamacallit"….just because it is easier that way(for someone without a hoist anyways).
Maybe they leave the motor in on one bolt and do pull the trans free after pulling the passenger strut off or whatever…. but in any case it is a job. Then transmission is split from the motor to get to the clutch.
I am guessing the 2 shops are taking into consideration that the flywheel "might" need refacing(meaning, sent to a machine shop" . So better to include that in the estimate so as to be covered should that be the case.
There is no way to know what needs replacing until it actually comes down to doing the work. Then they can see each and every part and the condition it is in. >Usable or trash<?
And then it is all reassembled. You may lose the car for a day or longer.
The clutch figures you are using is for the "parts" only…basically the same for the labor. But that is for the pressure plate as well.(which does not always have to be replaced)….or the flywheel resurfaced.
That is the difference between shops, some that will just replace the friction disc and others that will replace everything. Check out more than 2 if you can. Anybody that does cars today does front-wheel drive cars. Whether it be Honda, Toyota or other. VW is the same setup. So check all transmission speciality shops, then VW speciality shops then various garages that have a mechanic that will do this type of work.
6 quotes are better than 2 quotes.
You may also be able to get the parts cheaper (kinda like parts made in Brazil by a VW jobber (they make parts for VW but are not a VW company)rather than in Germany with the VW stamped part.
The clutch disk is similar to the soles of your shoes. Does it matter that it is Gucci or a no-name brand? The sidewalk is all that is going to see it. It is the sole of the shoe for heaven sake. They wear out. Maybe you won’t get 10 years on the next one….but maybe you won’t have the car anymore either.
There is give and take here and common sense.
This is not a rocket science job. I can do it without a hoist. It takes longer but in a day and a half and I am good to go.. (and I am not hard at it). I use a "jobber clutch disc"-gotten at an automotive shop like UAP/NAPA or if they don’t have one I go to an auto store that can get one(I have already priced out the cost of the dealership) sometimes their price is lower-but rarely. Certainly there is a price difference between what the supplier charges a shop and what they charge you; but there is also a price difference between what you can get from the supplier and what the mechanic charges you….every body is taking their piece of the pie. And you are the pie.
I drop the complete motor do the switch and bolt it together again and lift it up back into the car. No problems. In 5 years I have already switched to another car just because I was in need of a change….of driving experiences.
Posted by admin on June 15th, 2010
I have a 1977 camaro that is red with black racing stripes. that body is in great condition as is the paint. and the interior is awesome as well. There are a few small dents on the hood and front fenders from hail damage but you can only see them in the right light. Its a 350 4-bolt main target master block that has been bored .060 over, it has aluminum flat top pistons, double hump heads ( that have had the valves machined from 1.50 to 1.60), roller rockers, chromaili push rods, a pretty radical cam and double roller chain, all in all its pushing about 400 horse. Its paired with a 700r4 that has been rebuilt with all new and added race clutches, corvette servo, trans go shift kit. The rear axle is a 12 bolt with 3.43 and a trac-lock. its on mag wheels with cooper cobra tires. How much do you think i could sell it for?
it has 10 miles on the enngine and rebuilt trans. The body has 96,000 original miles
All the mods mean nothing in price, You have to think about everything you put in it is now used with ,How many miles? As soon as you install a mod it’s then worth half of what you paid for it. When you put miles on these mods they are worth 1/4 of what you paid for it. Double hump heads are OK but they are not worth much. They were great in their day. A.block bored .60 over is worth less than a block that has never been bored. You can’t rebuild that block again without worrying about busting a cylinder wall. It needs body work and paint. I would give 2 or 3 grand for it depending on how much it would cost me to bring it up to par.How many miles are on it, not just the motor but the suspension and all as well.
