My 2005 corvette c6 has trouble getting into reverse, but has no other problem when shifting to any other gear?

i went to Pontiac and they said its normal when you disengage the clutch and then put it in reverse. kinda seems weird to me

Most GM vehicles do not use a synchronizing gear on reverse. Never have. I’ve found when pulling shifter into reverse and it won’t go, to just quickly pop the shifter into 2nd or 3rd then back to reverse. Putting it into gear moves the the gears just enough to allow reverse to smoothly slide in. Letting the clutch out will spin the gears and you can embarrassingly grind gears into reverse. Not worth it to me.

Good luck.

What is wrong with my clutch, or is it the transmission on my 1994 camaro 5 speed?

just replaced motor, clutch, radiator, exc.. and shifting into 1st gear is difficult (sometimes requires pushing clutch 2 times) and shifting into reverse is almost impossible to do w/ out grinding.

1994 camaro 3.4l v6 5 speed trans w overdrive. after the clutch was installed i took and had the hydroulics (which are all new) bled. please help!!!
is 1100 rpm too high of idle? i went into the car and without starting it shifted, and at first it was kindove difficult to shift 1st and reverse… but after about 2 cycles it all felt normal. i bought the car without driving it (needed a motor) so i dont know the history of the car, which is y i replaced everything i could think of. thanks for your help so far!! am i on the right track?

how much work is it to replace a flywheel?

shift linkage out of adjustment with engine off put car in first loosen the clamp bolt connecting the shifter to the linkage. jiggle the shifter and have someone tighten the clamp while you hold the shifter in first gear position

how much should it cost to get a clutch disc replaced? (with flywheel resurfacing, bearing replacement, etc)?

I’ve just noticed my clutch to start slipping (when downshifting to accelerate, on hills, etc) so I assume it’d be best to go ahead and get it replaced.

Car is 94 hyundai s coupe, 115k miles, FWD.

About how much should I look to pay a transmission shop to take care of this for me, including flywheel resurfacing and everything else that should go into a clutch replacement? thanks.

about 450/500 in that area if nothing else is required….if the quoted price is much higher than that, shop around

Rattle in 6-speed shifter LT4 Corvette?

My 1996 Corvette LT4 6-speed has developed an annoying rattle in the shifter. The car has 21,000 miles and has had no problems since new. Is there an easy fix aside from installing a new shifter? I’ve read that some new shifters rattle and I have been spoiled all these years. Is the shifter install a DIY project or should I let my mechanic handle the job? Aside from the rattle, the car runs as smooth as glass, even at high speed. Also, the rattle occurs mainly in 1st and 2nd gear. Fifth and 6th are quiet. The car shifts great and the clutch is smooth with no slipping? Any ideas.

I don’t think it’s the shifter. Take it back to the dealer and have them look it over. It may be the exhaust too close to the transmission and it be rubbing and making the rattle. That wouldn’t be the first time. They’ve had recalls like that on the 98 models.

does anyone have detailed instructions on how to replace the clutch in my 1998 3.8l camaro?

thanks for your help

Sure you want to do this yourself? OK! Here we go….

1. Firstly you will need to support the car high enough off the ground to be able to work and remove the trans from the bottom of the car without interference. Saftey is first and you should use two good sets of rated tall jackstands.

2. Support the trans witha floor jack and a piece of wood between it and the trans to avoid causing damage.

3.You will need to remove the clutch slave cylinder that actuates the clutch at the left side of the bell housing. Remove also any linkages and speedo cable from the trans. Remove the rear trans mount after removal of the driveshaft and the rear anti torq arm that runs from the back of the trans to the front of the rear differential. You may also want to remove the console and shifter boot, and shifter from the top of the trans. Exhaust may also need to be removed. Read on before you start this also. You will lose fluid when you pull the shaft from the tailhousing. Remove all the bolts should be four of em holding the trans to the bell housing.
Remove the trans and slide out with the floor jack.

4. Remove all the bolts holding the bell housing to the engine block, Remove the bell housing with the clutch fork. The throwout bearing may come out with the fork.

5. You will be looking at the clutch assembly now and need to remove the presure plate bolts. Remove the top bolt last so there will not be binding on the other bolts.

6. The clutch disc will most likely fall out unless it is stuck to the Flywheel. If stuck just tap with a piece of wood to release it’s bond.

7. Inspect the flywheel for hot spots (shinny like mirror areas) and also check for any deep scratches. It is reccomended to remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced. This will make a huge difference in the life of the new clutch you plan to install and it’s overall performance.

8. Take the disc and pressure plate with you to the auto parts store so they may match it up precisely. You will most likely want to purchace a clutch kit, clutch pilot tool (aligns the splines ), a new throwout bearing, and a pilot bearing or washer if so equiped. The pilot bearing or washer is located in the end of the crankshaft of the engine. You may also pick up one pound of the reccomended trans fluid/ oil if you lost any durring the removal. Ooooops! Don’t forget some spray brake cleaner to clean parts durring and after assembly and get yourself some hand cleaner with towels for cleanup.

9. Pick up a Chilton manual or comparable repair book so you can get the tightening torque specs. ( this is the amount of force required to install these components in a safe and secure state. Loctite threadlocker might be reccomended by your parts supplier. This is a liquid that will be placed on some of the bolts to better secure the bolts once tightened and torqued to spec. (TORQUE WRENCH REQUIRED)

10. Reasemble all parts in reverse order following the guidlines in your new manual or instructions from the kit. Don’t forget to align the disc with the pilot tool before tightening down the pressure plate bolts.

11. Once you have the parts (clutch kit) in place clean all with brake cleaner.Install the new Throwout bearing and bell housing with fork. Install the trans with help. This way it will be easier to manipulate it to an inline position besides being safer. It might be neccesary to rotate the output shaft to mesh the splines. (look for a king spline) This will be one spline that is larger then all the rest. IF you have one of these you will need to align it with the one found on the splines of the disc you installed. If it has this king spline, make sure you set the disc in with the king spline at a 12 o’clock position. Then upon installation of the trans input shaft you will know to locate the king spline on the shaft at 12 also making alignment and mesh easier. KEEP ALL PARTS FREE FROM OIL,GREESE, or ANY OTHER CONTAMINANTS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Including the splines!

12. Once you trans is in place and bolted in to torque specs, Install the linkages, shifter, boot and console if so equiped. Install the clutch slave cylinder with accuator rod, Speedo cable, wiring etc. Tighten rear trans mount and reinstall driveshaft. Check and fill fluids accordingly.

13. It is highly recomended that you take it to a qualified shop as this is not a task for beginers. You might also have to remove exhaust, starter, and various support bars if so equiped.

14. If you got it done on your own and was your first attempt then pat yourself on the back and hope you did not cut corners so you won’t have to do it again later. Also keep in mind what Isaid about the CHILTON MANUAL! This book will give you step by step instructions with pictures. This change of parts will require you to also remove the shifter boot and console including various wiring as needed.

15. YOU DID IT! HEY! GOOD LUCK!

what possible causes for 1994 Toyota pick-up clutch not completely disengaging?

I did a motor swap with the engine and transmission as a unit. They were never separated. The hydraulic clutch line was never disconnected. The only part removed and reinstalled was the shifter lever. It was hard shifting for a while, but now the clutch does not completely disengage. is it possible that the "slave" cylinder has just coincidentally failed?
Thanks Binxtaroo, I should have mentioned that I tried bleeding and also completely replacing the fluid.

Take a flashlite and look up under the dash at the clutch pedal bracket. They had a way of cracking on the bracket and would flex when you put pressure on it during depression of the clutch pedal. It may be broken and need replacement. Also when you are there, check the pushrod on the clutch master cylinder. the locknut on the pushrod can come loose and make the adjustment back off. should be just a tiny bit of freeplay(bout 1/16th of an inch) before the rod meets resistance on the master cylinder.
Good luck—T&T